China’s wine market can feel like two different stories told at the same time. On one side, imports and local production have fallen dramatically compared with a decade ago, and the industry has watched bankrupt importers, distributors, wine bars, and shops pile up as consumers become more cautious with spending. Competition from beer, spirits, and niche drinks has only made the future feel murkier.
On the other side, a quieter shift is taking shape, one rooted less in status and more in pleasure. As consumption habits change, white wines have been gaining share, with New Zealand and Germany emerging as import winners, often linked to interest in Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. The picture is a smaller market overall, but one that some observers argue may be healthier, as younger drinkers show curiosity for new styles and local producers develop more distinct identities.
This tension between contraction and renewal is the backdrop for a Wine to Asia online panel called Defying the Downturn, scheduled for September 3 from 4 PM to 5 PM China time. The panel brings together five trade figures from cities including Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, and Wuhan, all connected by a common thread: they are building businesses and communities even as the broader category struggles.
Restaurateur Isabella Ko, who runs the wine focused concept The Merchants in Beijing and Shanghai, has expanded her reach with global popups and has carried Chinese wines abroad, including a July collaboration with a top Moscow restaurant. Jeuce Huang, founder of Taste Communications and marketing director for Wines of Germany, is tied to nationwide Riesling promotions that align with China’s current interest in whites. In Shanghai, veteran wine bar operator Simon Briens has built venues such as Blaz and Babar on Donghu Road and recently launched Fangdu, a project that pairs fine wine with Chinese cuisine.
Education and local community building are equally central to the panel’s lineup. Frank Liu, an educator and bar owner, leads Feaster+, a company with 15 years of WSET course experience alongside more casual learning, and he also founded Bistro Luedi in Wuhan. In Chengdu, brand manager Joy Gong represents Bar Wine Tale, a concept with more than 3,000 bottles and three branches designed to offer distinct experiences for dedicated enthusiasts, with Wine to Asia’s Simone Incontro moderating the discussion.
Together, these stories suggest a direction for China’s wine culture that values curiosity, hospitality, and expertise over old banquet habits. Even if the market remains smaller for now, the people shaping it are pushing for a scene that is more diverse, more pleasure driven, and potentially more export ready. In that sense, the glass may be half empty, but the half full is gaining definition.